*MAFIA* Forums
*MAFIA* => Help => Topic started by: *MAFIA* Beatlejuice on July 10, 2008, 02:55:16 PM
-
I've been having a lot of screen freezing lately (those of you who hear me lag on vent can attest to that), and CP thinks it is because of my computer temperature. I downloaded a program called "SpeedFan" to check it, and my CPU, Ambient, and Core all range from 40-55 degrees celsius. One fan runs at 2100 rpm and the other at 900 rpm.
For the past 5 years, I have been running these two fans/power supplies:
http://www.kpsurplus.com/products/view/8266
http://store.eboxdirect.com/250waatxposu.html
What do you think I should do -
1) Purchase the above links and install them.
2) Get "upgrades" if possible (please post links)
3) Something else, because this is not the problem...
-
40/50 degrees Celsius is not hot...
Screen freeze? Then you have a cooling problem with your GPU (video card). What card do you have? Then we can go from there on how to check temps of the card.
-
The program shows flames sometimes on my temps, especially when I'm playing games.
Here's the video card:
http://www.compusa.com/applications/searchtools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=3649678&Sku=V261-1600&SRCCODE=COMPGOOBDF&CMP=OTC-GPRODUCTS
-
Yea, FanSpeed dose that. If I would watch FanSpeed all the time on my computer, I would have to put a air conditioning unit in my computer.
Ok... It has been awhile from the time of running a ATI, but get this program...
http://www.guru3d.com/index.php?page=rivatuner
Install it and I will show you how to get a temp read and also how to have the temp show in game or when ever a 3D window is open on your desk top...
or nice and simple...
http://www.cpuid.com/hwmonitor.php this will not show temps in game, you will have to come out of game to see what they are. This program also is a simpler way of look at all temps of your computer.
Lets just hope your card has a temp sensor.
-
I also have a program called PC Wizard 2008.
I installed the RivaTuner but see no temperatures.. .
-
Loaded, I think ATI Tray Tools is far better for his case since all he wants is temp monitoring. RivaTuner is more of a high end customization of your video card.
Download the app from here. (http://www.guru3d.com/article/ati-tray-tools-/)
I don't think it would be the graphics card. I'm leaning more towards CPU and if that is overheating, it could be a problem. But 40-55 C is not so bad that it could cause this.
I'm not too sure about this one, but what about some malware, viruses?
-
Put a giant ice cube in it LOL.
Try getting a bigger fan..
-
True Roshan... Just pointing that one out because I know it works and could help him set it up, also that is why I gave him the other link for the "Simple" one.
Not sure what to do now beatle, if you don't see temps, then it is very possible you don't have a temp sensor. Try that other program I linked to, it is simple to use and it will let us know for sure.
Also on the other forums... http://www.mafiaowns.com/secrets/index.php?topic=33.0 is a very good tool for checking your system.
-
Minimum System Requirements
- Intel® Pentium® 4, Pentium III, AMD™ Athlon™ 64, Athlon XP or compatible with AGP 8x slot
- 256MB System memory (512MB+ recommended)
- Installation software requires CD-ROM drive
- DVD playback requires DVD drive
- Correct Chipset drivers
- 350 watt or greater power supply
- Available 4-pin power connector from power supply unit
I only have a 250 watt power supply, but the card still works and the fan still moves, so is that it or no...
-
Since you are going to reformat your computer, maybe that might fix it.
Also Loaded, I was talking to Beatle on Vent and he said that the power supply recommended for his video card is like a 350 W power supply, but he only has a 250 W power supply. That is sure to cause problems, but then he said he has had it like that for about a year now so I don't know what could it be.
Just hope for the best with the format. Maybe it's just some software bug or something.
EDIT-Damn, he beat me to it.
-
Pwned - yeah I've had the screen freeze off and on since I installed the card, but not nearly as bad as the past week. And I'm not reformatting, its for a different computer.
-
Stop looking at porn, it is a sin and you must repent. Once you do, then the Lord Jesus Christ will come down himself and unfreeze your CP.
-
Since you are going to reformat your computer, maybe that might fix it.
Also Loaded, I was talking to Beatle on Vent and he said that the power supply recommended for his video card is like a 350 W power supply, but he only has a 250 W power supply. That is sure to cause problems, but then he said he has had it like that for about a year now so I don't know what could it be.
Just hope for the best with the format. Maybe it's just some software bug or something.
EDIT-Damn, he beat me to it.
I think you are on the right track... Older power supply being over loaded from day one = getting ready to die.
Beatle... For the cost (cheap) I would go for a new power supply and see what it dose then. Give us what you want to spend and maybe we can point you to something at NewEgg, you don't have to get it from there, just a great place to see specs and pictures... I am thinking 450-550w just to have the extra on standby.
Go here... http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=2010320058+4025&name=%2425+-+%2450
Do a "compare" of some of what you are looking at, after you hit "compare" and a new window pops up, post the link here. There are cheaper, but "I" wouldn't go cheaper, but my computer is a bit power hungry.
-
Money is not an issue, I want to buy hardware that owns all. I just want something that is compatible with my tower, that'd suck if I bought something and it didn't fit or work or whatever. Send me the best link and I'll pwn it with rush delivery.
Edit...LAAZ is on ventrilo and says I should get this:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817709015
-
Well I can point you to all kinds of PS units, but you only need what your computer needs plus a bit more. I am sure you know 1000w $200 PS isn't going to make your computer own.
It would be better to do it this way... Specs of the computer (CPU specs will do) and price you want to spend.
-
Well you already have the specs for my video card.
- AMD 64 Processor
- 2.2 GHz, 3200+
- 2048 MB RAM
- Anything else you need?
I'll spend $30 to $100 I guess, don't really know how much these things go for, I have more money if needed.
-
Ok... if you can give me sometime because I am working on the shoutbox right now or maybe someone else will push you in the right direction in the mean time.
-
I've narrowed it down to these:
1) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817162017 - 600w, $30
2) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817171018 - 500w, $50
3) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817148027 - 500w, $40
4) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817162010 - 500w, $30
Which would you guys go with and why...
-
None. You skimp out on a power supply and you will pay for it later. It is one of the components where you dont want to find the cheapest ones.
I'll look up some more and have them posted by tomorrow.
-
Roshan, look at the ratings on those, they're not cheap.
Anyway, here are some more expensive ones:
1) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817189005
2) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817189014
3) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817104037
4) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817104034
Other than the internet, I don't do much with my computer besides watch movies and play video games - the one with the most graphics requirements being BF2. I might get COD4 though. Based on my video card information and computer specs, will any of those 4 links above work? They are the best of the best for ATX.
-
here is my choice http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371007
Why? Because I have it in my computer, clean pure power... And I paid almost $100 for it when it 1st came out.
My system...
ABit AN8 Ultra mother board
AMD Opteron 185 cpu (over clocked)
2G of ram
MSI 8800GT 512 video card (over clocked)
2ea Western Digital Hard Drives running raid 0
CD/DVD drive
3 case fans
so on and so on.
^^^ just posting to show you what it is running and running really well.
-
Yeah but I'm not running all that stuff - how do I know what my motherboard is?
That is a good deal, $30 off eh...did you look at #4 in my second set of links...
-
Yes I see it, I just don't know anything about it, but the PSU I have I do... But #2 is pretty damn close to the same as mine and mine is much less expensive.
Specs for your #2
Model
Brand FSP Group
Model Blue Storm II
Spec
Type ATX 2.2
Maximum Power 500W
Fans 120mm Riffle.bearing Fan
PFC Active
Main Connector 20+4Pin
+12V Rails 2
PCI-E Connectors 2 x 6Pin
NVIDIA SLI Support Yes
Modular Cabling Support No
Efficiency > 80%
Input Voltage 100 - 240 V
Input Frequency Range 50/60 Hz
Input Current 8A @ 115V, 4A @ 230V
Output +3.3V@30A,+5V@30A,+12V1@18A,+12V2@18A,
-12V@0.8A, +5VSB@2.5A
MTBF >100,000 Hours
Approvals UL, CSA, VDE, NEMKO, CNS, CE, CB, FCC
Features
Connectors 1 x Main connector (20+4Pin)
1 x 12V(P4)
6 x peripheral
4 x SATA
2 x Floppy
2 x PCI-E
Features Supports Duo.core CPU System
Energy Saver | 1.watt Standby Mode
Advanced Thermal Control Sensor
Mesh.wire Cable Management
On/off LED Switch | With A/C Cord
Low Ripple | Low Operating Noise
Full Range Input| OVP | OCP | SCP output
Manufacturer Warranty
Parts 2 years limited
Labor 2 years limited
Specs from my pick...
Model
Brand Antec
Model EA500
Series earthwatts
Spec
Type ATX12V v2.0
Maximum Power 500W
Fans 80mm low noise cooling fan
PFC Active
Main Connector 20+4Pin
+12V Rails 2
PCI-E Connectors 2 x 6Pin
NVIDIA SLI Support Yes
Modular Cabling Support No
Efficiency > 80%
Energy-Efficient 80 PLUS Certified
Input Voltage 100 - 240 V
Input Frequency Range 50/60 Hz
Input Current 9A
Output +3.3V@24A,+5V@24A,+12V1@17A,+12V2@17A,-12V@0.8A, +5VSB@2.5A
Approvals UL, CUL, FCC, TUV, CE, CB, C-tick, CCC
Features
Features Dual 12V outputs: 12V2 for Motherboard and peripherals; 12V1 for processor
Industrial-grade protection circuitry prevents damage resulting from short circuits, power overloads, over voltage, and under voltage
80 Plus Certified is the newest standard in power supply efficiency.
At least 80% high efficiency at any load, will save you money on your electrical bill.
Reduce heat in your computer's system.
4 SATA connectors
2 PCI-E connector
Universal input
PF value up to 99%
Manufacturer Warranty
Parts 3 years limited
Labor 3 years limited
Not to much of a difference there, but yours has a bigger cooling fan of 120mm compered to mine of 80mm. And mine gives 1 more year of a warranty. So with that said, to very close PSU, but one is $60 (mine) and the other is $90 (yours)
True we don't know what mother board you have, but for the most part all PSUs are backward compatible, I am assuming your MB is more then a year or 2 old.
-
Yeah, is there a way I can look at my motherboard under dxdiag? Mine is 4-5 years old.
Also, your link is an ATX 12V and I've just been looking at ATX - are they compatible?
Should I go with link #2 or yours? I guess I'll wait for some other people to read this over the next day or two to decide...
-
Look for a power supply that says it has an efficiency rating of 80% or higher. 83% and up is really good.
What it means is that the power being taken from the wall outlet 110v and converting it so that it can be fed through to all your components. When it converts, it looses a lot of the power so that's where the efficiency comes in. If you have a low %, it means you are loosing a lot of the power which is not good for the comp nor for your electric bill. So if it says like a 650W power supply, you want to make sure that your comp is getting that power, instead of loosing some of it due to the steps.
For motherboard, download CPU-Z. It will tell you in the tabs all the info about your CPU, motherboard, and RAM.
-
Here is cpu-z down load (http://www.cpuid.com/download/cpuz_146.zip) that Roshan is talking about. Run it and go to the "Mainboard" tab, there you will see the info of your board.
Take your time beatle get some input from people on a choice before getting the PSU.
i'm done for the night.
-
(http://www.mafiaowns.com/mfs/ih/motherboard.PNG)
-
I'm pretty sure the model is this: ASUS K8S-LA (SALMON) Motherboard
I did a search and northbridge and southbridge information match so I'm pretty sure it is the correct model. And when you type in Asus Salmon in Google, this is the only model you get.
HP Page (http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=c00257657&dlc=en&lc=en&product=449386&os=228&cc=us&printable=yes)
-
Socket 754? Ok then... Beatle, if that board is correct, the choice you and I made will work.
-
Which choice did we make...
1) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817189014
or
2) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371007
The first one is just ATX (which is what I already have) and the second one is ATX 12V. What is the difference?
-
That part is the same... ATX is ATX, 12volt. Someone just didn't put it in the spec sheet for the one PSU.
The decision is yours, they both will work the same, again it is the cost. This is all IMO only.
Oh wait, WTF did I do? I was looking at your links again and this whole time I was talking about your #4 and not #2, when comparing my choice to yours... Why didn't you say something you shit? Sorry, to much computer screen time yesterday.
In any case... This has some points to it.
yours...
+3.3V@30A;+5V@30A;+12V1@18A;+12V2@18A;-12V@0.5A; +5VSB@3.0A
Mine...
+3.3V@24A,+5V@24A,+12V1@17A,+12V2@17A,-12V@0.8A, +5VSB@2.5A
When talking about amp output, your choice has mine beat.
Again I think you will be fine with one or the other. BUT where is the warranty specs for yours?
Maybe look at the reviews on NewEgg and let that help you?
Yours 40 http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductReview.aspx?Item=N82E16817189014
Mine 185 http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductReview.aspx?Item=N82E16817371007